Safety Disclosure
Summit and route are subject to weather, snow, health, team pace and the expedition leader’s decision.
Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m)
22 DAYS / 21 NIGHTS · KATHMANDU / LUKLA / NAMCHE BAZAAR / TENGBOCHE / AMA DABLAM BASE CAMPGrade V Technical Alpine (French 4c-5a rock, WI3-4 ice, 50°-70° steepness)1:3 Guide Ratio

Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m)

The Matterhorn of the Himalayas. The definitive technical jewel of the Khumbu.

Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349 ft) is universally acclaimed as one of the most aesthetic and technically rewarding peaks on Earth. Located in the heart of the Khumbu Everest sanctuary, the classic Southwest Ridge offers steep, exhilarating climbing on solid golden granite, followed by knife-edge snow arêtes and a massive hanging ice face leading to a 360° summit vista of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Guided by elite IFMGA instructors and veteran High-Altitude Climbing Sherpas with a 1:1 / 1:2 ratio, comprehensive fixed-rope infrastructure, heated geodesic dining camps, and medical oxygen safety backup, Peak Core India delivers a gold-standard expedition.

Training before ambition. Turnaround time before ego. Team before summit.
Plan on WhatsApp
Summit Altitude6,812 m / 22,349 ft
Duration22 Days / 21 Nights
Technical GradeExtremely Strenuous & Technical Alpine
Start / FinishTribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu (KTM) to Kathmandu, Nepal
Skills TrainingIncluded (Day 3/4)
Safety MarginReserve Buffer Included
Elevation Model

Interactive Altitude Curve (1,000m to 6,812m)

*Camp elevations marked approx.; exact high camp depends on seasonal snowline.
1,400m1,400m2,860m3,440m3,880m3,870m4,600m4,600m4,750m5,700m4,600m5,700m5,950m6,300m4,600m5,700m6,000m6,812m6,812m5,700m3,440m2,860m
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m / 4,590 ft)
1,400m
Stage 1 Camp
Day 2
Kathmandu Expedition Briefing & Official Permits
1,400m
Stage 2 Camp
Day 3
Mountain Flight to Lukla (2,860m); Trek to Phakding (2,610m)
2,860m
Stage 3 Camp
Day 4
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 11,290 ft)
3,440m
Stage 4 Camp
Day 5
Namche Bazaar Acclimatization Hike to Everest View (3,880m)
3,880m
Stage 5 Camp
Day 6
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche Monastery (3,870m)
3,870m
Stage 6 Camp
Day 7
Trek from Tengboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m / 15,088 ft)
4,600m
Stage 7 Camp
Day 8
Base Camp Lhabsang Puja Ceremony & Gear Staging
4,600m
Stage 8 Camp
Day 9
Technical Skills Training & Fixed-Rope Mastery Lab
4,750m
Stage 9 Camp
Day 10
Acclimatization Rotation to ABC (5,200m) & Touch Camp 1 (5,700m)
5,700m
Stage 10 Camp
Day 11
Rest, High-Calorie Nutrition & Telemetry Review
4,600m
Stage 11 Camp
Day 12
Climb to Camp 1 (5,700m / 18,700 ft)
5,700m
Stage 12 Camp
Day 13
Technical Climb: Camp 1 to Camp 2 via The Yellow Tower (5,950m)
5,950m
Stage 13 Camp
Day 14
Acclimatization past Mushroom Ridge toward Camp 3 (6,300m); Descend to BC
6,300m
Stage 14 Camp
Day 15
Base Camp Recovery & Summit Push Strategy Briefing
4,600m
Stage 15 Camp
Day 16
SUMMIT PUSH STAGE 1
5,700m
Stage 16 Camp
Day 17
SUMMIT PUSH STAGE 2
6,000m
Stage 17 Camp
Day 18
SUMMIT DAY
6,812m
Stage 18 Camp
Day 19
Contingency / Weather Reserve Day
6,812m
Stage 19 Camp
Day 20
Descend from High Camps to Base Camp; Trek to Namche Bazaar
5,700m
Stage 20 Camp
Day 21
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m)
3,440m
Stage 21 Camp
Day 22
Scenic Flight Lukla to Kathmandu; International Departures
2,860m
Stage 22 Camp
The Mountain Philosophy

Between Trekking & True Mountaineering

Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349 ft) is universally acclaimed as one of the most aesthetic and technically rewarding peaks on Earth. Located in the heart of the Khumbu Everest sanctuary, the classic Southwest Ridge offers steep, exhilarating climbing on solid golden granite, followed by knife-edge snow arêtes and a massive hanging ice face leading to a 360° summit vista of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Guided by elite IFMGA instructors and veteran High-Altitude Climbing Sherpas with a 1:1 / 1:2 ratio, comprehensive fixed-rope infrastructure, heated geodesic dining camps, and medical oxygen safety backup, Peak Core India delivers a gold-standard expedition.

Scale the world's most iconic technical spire. A legendary 22-day Himalayan expedition featuring granite slab climbing, the famous Yellow Tower, the airy Eagle's Nest, and a breathtaking hanging glacier summit face in Nepal's Everest sanctuary.

A Learning-Led Expedition

This programme is for people who want more than a photo at altitude. Carry your personal responsibility, practise the systems that protect the rope team, and understand why turning around can be the strongest mountaineering decision of the day.

A Progression, Not a Shortcut

The programme creates deliberate time for assessment, acclimatisation and technical snow training before the summit push.

A Clear Mountain Story

Move from lower valley approach routes through high moraines, intermediate camps and high Himalayan ridge lines on Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m).

Decisions Led by Conditions

Route, camp position, departure time and turnaround point remain operational decisions—never compromised by ego.

A True Team Experience

Learn camp discipline, gear care, pacing and rope-team responsibility rather than being treated as passive passengers.

The Day-by-Day Expedition Plan

Detailed Alpine Itinerary

22 Days / 21 Nights • Total Distance: Approximately 75–85 km trek + technical fixed-line ridge climb • Max Elevation: 6,812 m / 22,349 ft

DAY1

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m / 4,590 ft)

Start:Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM)
End:Thamel, Kathmandu (1,400m)
Duration:Road transfer (30–45 mins)
Stay:Heritage 4-Star Hotel in Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. The Peak Core India expedition team meets you at the arrivals gate and transfers you to our partner hotel in Thamel. Evening welcome briefing, gear checklist overview, and celebratory expedition welcome dinner.

Meals: Welcome Dinner Included
Confirmed 2026–27 Batches

Fixed Departure Dates & Batches

Small-group alpine integrity (Max 8 climbers per batch) with guaranteed departure schedules.

Guide Ratio: 1:2 to 1:3

Custom & Rolling Dates Available

We operate weekly scheduled batches throughout the active climbing season. Connect with our expedition desk to lock your dates or join an existing rope team.

Inquire Departure Schedule
30% Advance DepositSecure slot with balance payable prior to trip
Zero Cancellation Shifting100% free date transfer up to 15 days before start
Small-Group GuaranteeStrict 1:2 / 1:3 guide-to-climber ratio on summit
Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m) Mountain Academy

The Alpine Skills Lab (Day 3/4)

Before anyone steps onto high snow slopes or summit ridges, our expedition leaders conduct hands-on technical rehearsals on appropriate snow slopes:

Crampon Movement & French TechniqueFlat footwork, front-pointing on steeper rolls, side-stepping, and checking boot-binding tension.
Ice Axe Self-Arrest & Anchor PositionsImmediate arrest from head-first, feet-first, and sliding positions; pick placement and stance.
Rope Spacing & Team DisciplineMoving synchronized on fixed lines, maintaining rope tension, clipping past protection anchors, and clear vocal calls.
Summit Night Equipment CheckLayering sequence, headlamp batteries, glove systems, insulated flasks, and buddy check protocols.
Operational Safety Protocols

Summit-Day Decision System

Reaching the summit is secondary to returning safely to basecamp. Our expedition leaders operate under clear, non-negotiable safety criteria:

1. Absolute Turnaround Time (10:00 AM TAT)

Regardless of proximity to the summit, any team that has not reached the top by 10:00 AM must reverse direction immediately before afternoon snow softens or summit storms develop.

2. Continuous Health & Pacing Review

Guides monitor coordination, cognitive alertness, and breathing. Anyone exhibiting AMS, ataxia, or severe exhaustion is turned around with an assigned guide.

3. Operational Weather Buffer Utilization

If summit day faces high winds, heavy snow, or zero visibility, the attempt is called off and rescheduled to the reserve buffer day if mountain weather permits.

Physical Conditioning

Suggested 8-Week Mountaineering Preparation

General guidance for fit climbers preparing for Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m).
Weeks 1–2 FocusStep 1 of 5

Build Aerobic Baseline & Consistency

4 aerobic sessions per week, 35–50 minutes each (zone 2 running, cycling, swimming)
2 full-body strength sessions focusing on squats, lunges, and core stability
1 easy weekend hike (8–10 km) on rolling trails with light daypack
Prioritise sleep, hydration, and injury-free joint mechanics
Climbing Windows

Best Seasons & Mountain Weather

Snow Conditions

Firm Snow & Snow Bridges

Abundant firm snow cover across high camps, col and summit slopes on Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m). Ideal for crampon step-kicking.

Temperature Range

Day: 8°C to 15°C · Night: -5°C

Pleasant lower valley temperatures with cold sub-zero nights at High Summit Camp.

Weather Stability

Clear Early Mornings

Alpine starts at 02:00 AM capitalise on crisp, stable weather windows before afternoon convective clouds form.

Gear Checklist Matrix

Field, Clothing & Technical Equipment

Climbing helmet (CE/UIAA certified)Supplied for expedition
Included
Mountaineering harnessSupplied for expedition
Included
Mountaineering crampons (step-in/semi-rigid)Supplied for expedition
Included / Rental
Ice axe (walking / technical col axe)Supplied for expedition
Included
Locking screw-gate carabiners & safety slingSupplied for expedition
Included
Waterproof snow gaitersAvailable for rent at base
Bring / Rental
Commercial Transparency

Expedition Inclusions & Exclusions

Included in Expedition
Peak Core India certified expedition leadership and 1:1 or 1:2 High-Altitude Climbing Sherpa summit ratio
Nepal Department of Tourism official Ama Dablam climbing permit and Sagarmatha National Park entry fees
Round-trip domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu (including 15kg baggage allowance)
4-Star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (2 nights twin-sharing with breakfast)
Comfortable teahouse lodge accommodation during the trek to and from Base Camp
Spacious individual sleeping tents and heated geodesic dome dining tent with solar charging at Base Camp
High-altitude 4-season mountain tents at Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3
All meals: fresh, nutritious hot meals at Base Camp and specialized high-calorie freeze-dried meals at high camps
Expedition cook, kitchen assistants, and porter/yak baggage transport (up to 30kg per climber to Base Camp)
Full fixed-rope infrastructure contribution, dynamic ropes, snow pickets, and rock anchor hardware
Medical-grade emergency supplemental oxygen cylinders, mask, regulator, and Gamow hyperbaric bag at Base Camp
Twice-daily pulse oximetry (SpO2) and vitals monitoring by expedition leaders
Traditional Sherpa Lhabsang Puja ceremony with Lama blessings and sacred flags at Base Camp
Official Peak Core India Summit Certificate and personalized expedition memento
Not Included (Exclusions)
  • International airfare to/from Kathmandu and Nepal tourist visa fees
  • Personal technical climbing gear (triple boots, crampons, harness, ice axes, jumar, helmet, down suit)
  • Mandatory high-altitude medical, emergency rescue, and helicopter evacuation insurance (up to 7,000m)
  • Personal Summit Bonus for designated 1:1 Climbing Sherpa (standard industry rate: $800 - $1,200 upon summit)
  • Personal expenses, laundry, alcoholic beverages, hot showers, and Wi-Fi in trekking teahouses
  • Tips for Base Camp kitchen staff, trekking porters, and local drivers
  • Cost of excess baggage on domestic Lukla flights beyond the standard 15kg allowance
  • Expenses incurred due to weather-related Lukla flight cancellations, landslides, or early descent
Permits & Mandatory Insurance

Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m) is conducted under Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) and local state forest department guidelines. Peak Core India secures all required clearances, camping permissions, and peak permits.

Insurance Requirement:Participants must possess comprehensive mountaineering insurance covering high-altitude medical expenses, search, and helicopter evacuation up to 6,812 m / 22,349 ft.
Leave No Trace & Environmental Ethics

We operate under strict alpine conservation standards. All solid waste, food packaging, and non-biodegradable materials are segregated, packed out, and transported back for municipal recycling.

Zero Summit Litter:No plastic packaging, waste wrappers, or synthetic flags are abandoned permanently on high ridges or summit slopes.
Expedition Clarity

Frequently Asked Questions

Ama Dablam is considered one of the most technical standard-route climbs in the Himalayas. It involves steep granite rock climbing (up to French 5a / 5.7 on the Yellow Tower), exposed knife-edge snow crests on the Mushroom Ridge, and 50°–60° steep front-pointing on hard ice beneath the Dablam hanging glacier. Climbers must be completely confident jumaring and abseiling on fixed ropes while wearing double/triple boots.
2026 Batch Departures Open

Ready to attempt Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m)?

Tell us about your trekking history, current training and preferred month. We will help you decide whether Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m) (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) is the right next mountaineering step for you.

Trip Coordinator: +91 8081184756Expedition Desk: +91 9120504505Email: peakcoreindia@gmail.com
Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m) (6,812 m / 22,349 ft)22 Days / 21 Nights